The most strenuous pitch of the route, Perry's Lieback undeclings and liebacks up a steep wide crack which trends right at 45 degrees. Although the pitch follows a crack, the first ascentionists had no gear wide enough hence a bolt ladder was drilled. Later, despite advances in wide crack protection, the bolts were replaced and the pitch has a very different character from the rest of the climb. While it is easy to complain about ethics and style from the ground, no one seems to hesitate much when confronted with a raging pump and shiny bolt. If you plan to skip the bolts, bring steel forearms or half a dozen #4 camalots...

Climber: Alisdair Buchanan
Photographer: Matthew Buckle