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Squamish is a great place to go and explore for yourself, and there are certainly enough climbs to keep the average climber busy for many years. But not everyone has this much time, so I have put together a list of my suggestions and opinions about the better routes and areas in squamish. Of course, these are just my opinions, and you may disagree, but that's life I suppose. My definitions of moderate and hard are quite arbitrary and fit the way I usually climb. If you have any comments or suggestions, let me know.
Beginner Leads
The Smoke Bluffs is probably the best place for easy leads, though Murrin has its share as well. Try the following (all in the bluffs):
Cat Crack
Laughing Crack
Burger's and Fries
Moderate Cracks
In the 5.8 to 5.9 range, there are quite a lot of options. The routes have a tendancy towards hand cracks, mostly at a pleasant angle. Again, these are mostly at the Bluffs or Murrin.
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Mosquito
Quarryman
Penny Lane
Cold Comfort
Clandestine Affair
Anything at Octopus's Garden
Wicker Cranium
The World's Toughest Milkman
High Mountain Woody
Slot Machine
5.10 cracks
This is where things start to get steeper, thinner and more interesting. The best places to go are the base of the Grand Wall or the Lower Malamute. Lots of good stuff in this grade everywhere though.
Just Blessed
Seasoned in the Sun
Neat and Cool
Jabberwocky
The Zip
Flying Circus
Apron Strings
Exasperator
Caboose
Crescent Crack
Hand Jive
Arrowroot
The Brunser Overhang
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hard stuff (5.11 and up)
well, I haven't done a whole lot in this range, so there isn't a lot to choose from. But there is some of this pretty much everywhere.
Clean Crack
Crime of the Century
Horror's of Ivan
The Yorkshire Gripper
Rutabaga
Moderate Long Stuff
Mostly this stuff is on the Apron.
Diedre
Any of the routes off Baseline on the North Apron (best is St Vitus Dance)
Snake
Squamish Buttress (best approached via Rock on or any North Apron route)
The Ultimate Everything
Harder Long Stuff
Well, I haven't done any of the really hard long stuff, but the following routes in the 5.10-5.11 range are all worth doing. Especially the Grand Wall!
Angel's Crest
Grand Wall
Rock On
Godforsaken Land
Freeway (I've only done Freeway Light)
Cruel Shoes
sport climbing
Most of the good sport climbing is up north in Cheakamus. But there is not a lot which really stands out for me, I prefer climbing in Squamish proper. Murrin has a bunch of good sport routes, and there are a few bolted aretes and slabs in the Bluffs. Try the following:
Zoe
Lots of stuff at the Petrifying Wall
Sky Dancing
Poster Boy
Winter Cragging
In the winter sometimes it rains or snows. And if it doesn't, it's usually cold and the cracks are wet anyway. So finding sun is important. The Penny Lane area in the Smoke Bluffs faces south and gets lots of sun. Some of the cracks seep, but this just makes them more interesting. The Neat and Cool and Burgers and Fries areas don't get sun until a bit later, but tend to dry quickly and get good afternoon sun. The Malamute can take a bit longer to dry out, and be very cold if there is a strong wind off the water, but certainly offers good climbing. Base of the Grand Wall is similar but less breezy and occasionally prone to snow and ice falling from up above. Avoid Murrin, it is usually cold and windy. That said, during cold dry spells it is quite surprising what can dry out and be in condition, even in the middle of winter.
Summer Cragging
Pretty much wherever you want is good. It doesn't usually get too hot, but if it does, Murrin tends to be shady and cool. The North Walls are cool as well, mainly long stuff.
Escaping the crowds
If you're willing to climb mossy wet stuff, you can have solitude almost anytime. During the summer things can get a bit busy, but a little bit of hiking will get you away from the crowds quite reliably. For some reason the Bulletheads are never too popular, even though they offer a lot of good climbing with only a 5 minute approach. Avoid the mossy bits. Valley of Shaddai near Murrin has excellent climbing with a strenuous 15 minute approach. No crowds, no road noise, lots of potential for new routes. Mostly 5.10 and up. The backside of the Cheif is another great place to go. Aside from Sunblessed - the cover shot on the McLane guidebook - you can expect to have the place to yourself. Guarded by a 45 minute or so approach. This is also the only place with eastern exposure, so it can be warm and sunny early when everything else is still in the shade. Check out the Cirque of the Uncrackables while you are up there. Impressive stuff! The great gullies on the Chief can offer some interesting scrambling/bushbashing and climbing, and are certainly good adventures. Solitude is almost gauranteed.
Aid Routes
I have a lot more detailed information in the Squamish Aid Climbing section. Try the following:
Wrist Twister (goes clean)
University Wall (CLEAN!!)
Uncle Bens (often goes clean)
Sheriff's Badge (hard and definitely not clean)
