Matt's Climbing Page - The Smoke Bluffs

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Crime of the Century, one of the classic Smoke Bluff thin cracks

The Smoke Bluffs, a series of short cliffs right in the town of Squamish, has become one of the most popular crags in British Columbia. The easy access and high density of good climbs make the Smoke Bluffs a worthwhile visit and a vital part of anyone’s trip to Squamish. The first climbs in the Smoke Bluffs were established in the late 70’s and early 80’s as an alternative to the big wall routes on the Chief. Today there are well over 400 routes on at least 20 different bluffs. The rock is generally a rough granite characterized by thin cracks and occasional dykes.

Access

Due to the close proximity to residential neighborhoods, there have been some access issues in the past. Thanks to the hard work of a number of climbers, the benchland below Burgers and Fries has been purchased by the Federation of Mountain Clubs of BC, and a large parking area has been established on Loggers Lane. Please avoid any conduct which could create problems, but keep in mind that you have every right to climb in the Bluffs.

Heading north from Vancouver on hwy 99, turn right onto Loggers Lane at the traffic lights in downtown Squamish (beside McDonald’s and 7-11). Follow this road for a few hundred metres past an industrial site, and turn into the large gravel lot marked with the rock climbing sign. A trail heads from the south of the parking area along a gravel road to the cliffs.

Smoke Bluffs Map

Climbs

The climbs at the Smoke Bluffs run the full gamut from low angle 5.6 cracks to intimidating 5.13 roof climbs. In between are hundreds of fine hand and finger cracks as well as a number of good slab and thin face routes. The rock is a very granular granite which provides excellent friction, though often very sparse and small holds aside from the cracks. The abundance of natural protection and the local ethics mean that there are few bolts on routes below 5.11 at the Bluffs, though sadly these seems to be changing as of late. A standard rack to 2.5” should be sufficient for almost all of the routes. Most climbs have some sort of anchor at the top, though some are tree anchors, and a few still require gear to set up a top rope. The following are some of the most popular walls at the Smoke Bluffs:

Neat and Cool

Another exceedingly popular crag. Some excellent finger and hand cracks complemented by a couple desperate face climbs. Neat and Cool and Flying Circus are among the best 5.10’s in the Bluffs. The western exposure of this cliff means that often the climbs can be dry and occassionally even (relatively) warm during the winter.

The Smoke Bluff Wall

A number of good routes up to 4 pitches can be found on this the tallest of the Smoke Bluffs. Lots of good cracks in the 5.7 to 5.10 range, plus the imposing Zombie Roof with a few routes in the 5.12 to 5.13 range. A few 5.11 face climbs seem to have popped up here in the last couple years as well.

Burgers and Fries

One of the most popular cliffs in Squamish. A pleasant low angle slab with a few easy cracks with some harder slab routes in between. The gentle angle and warm west exposure make this a popular place to teach beginners. Usually Crowded. Often dry in the winter.

Penny Lane

For those looking for climbs in the 5.11 range, Penny Lane has a number of more difficult finger cracks, many of which are outstanding, as well as a number of classic moderates. This is the long south facing cliff prominently visible from the Chief.

Thin fingers lead to thin face... John Millar on Power Windows

Although these are the most popular cliffs, they only comprise a fraction of the climbs found at the Smoke Bluffs. There are many smaller cliffs which offer one or two fine climbs, and are often free of the crowds at the larger crags. Take a few days to search around and you will be rewarded with some fantastic climbing.