Matt's Climbing Page

Tyee is the most developed climbing area in north west BC, and the only real sport crag. About 40 km east of Prince Rupert the 30 metre granite cliffs are visible from the highway above a swampy area north of the road.

On hwy 16 about 105 km west of Terrace, or 45 km east of Prince Rupert (a few hundred metres east of the Tyee overpass over the CN rail tracks) pull off onto a section of the old highway beside the railway tracks just before a swamp. Follow the arrow spray painted on the rock along with TRC (Tyee Rock Climbing) to a trail across the tracks and up to the cliffs.

The climbs at Tyee are on steep granite bluff just off highway 16. The rock is generally smooth (for granite) with a few finger/hand cracks and lots of blocky overhangs. Bolt anchors backed up with slings are found atop most of the climbs. Top roping is popular, and the climbs are all rigged with 3mm nylon rope to pull climbing ropes through the anchors. A trail leads from just to the right of Lizard King to the top of the cliff. Most of the climbs are also leadable, and some have been quite unnecessarily bolted, making this the north west's only real sport crag. The listed grades may be somewhat inaccurate.

The climbs are described heading northwest along the top of the trail from where it first meets the cliff.

(2) The Lizard King	5.10d	12 metres
An excellent climb, if a little short. Pull through the roof to a crack and up to the top. The difficulty is at the bottom. Strenuous.
(3) Corn Flake	5.8	15 metres
The easiest climb at Tyee. This is the short flake just around the corner from Lizard King.
(4) The Plumbers Crack	5.11?	30 metres
Follow the obvious corner crack 5m left of Corn Flake to difficult blocky overhangs above .
(5) Forever	5.11	27 metres
The dihedral corner at the center of the main cliff. Climb the dihedral then traverse left and through the three roofs. Up to the last roof the difficulty is about 5.9, and most climbers stop before the dirty climbing above this. Leadable on gear to 1 1/2" .
(6) The Crack	5.10b	27 metres
Although it's name is unoriginal, the climb is excellent. The obvious ugly offwidth crack quickly peters out into fantastic steep face climbing through blocky overhangs. Gear to 3" for the crack and bolts above.
(7) Stairway to Heaven	??	25 metres
Start up the crack, then climb the face above.
(8) Bullets	5.9	25 metres
The large ramp to the right of Shotgun Boogie, ending at the same anchors. 5.9 to the bush, perhaps 5.12 to the true top.
(9) Shotgun Boogie	5.10c	28 metres
Lots of pumpy laybacking through blocks to the highest point of the cliff. Start at the obvious inside corner at the base and trend left past bolts. Although there is fixed gear a couple small pieces may be nice. A good climb, and very strenuous
(10) The Mantis	5.12-	15 metres
The very impressive crack up the BIG overhang below Shotgun. Strenuous, technical and all that. All bolted despite the fact that the crack looks just ready to eat up gear...
(11) Peanut Butter	5.7	8 metres
A short and easy climb up an enjoyable layback crack

Between The Mantis and Peanut Butter is an area called The X, which hosts a couple bolder problems, and the longer section may be top-roped.