Matt's Climbing Page - Copper Mountain Southern Dihedrals

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Copper Mountain -- Souther Dihedrals The southern dihedrals contain some of the best climbing at Copper Mountain, with lots of undeveloped potential. A number of large dihedrals systems at varying angles are complemented by thin cracks and flakes, offering many possibilities. Currently, all of the developed routes are only a couple pitches, but there is lots of potential for longer (harder?) routes.

A decent trail follows the base of the cliff from below Houdini to the Southern Dihedrals. As the trail levels out after a steep slog it passes a difficult (5.11+) but short crack: So You Want to Climb Cracks. Alternately follow the hydro road a few hundred metres south past the golf course road. The road drops down a steep hill then turns right and forks. As the left fork crests a small hill head into the trees to a marked trail. Two ropes are needed to rappel off some of the routes, and a 60m rope is useful on the others.

A number of excellent routes have been developed on the prominent tall slab which sports the huge dihedral. Routes are described from left to right. Note that as of the last time I was here, there was no anchor atop Island in the sun except a small bushy tree. This has reportedly been remedied.

Island in the Sun 5.8 2 pitches

Climb the flakes rising along the white streak 5m from the big corner at the left. Trend right to a bolt/piton belay station (5.7). Follow the long finger/hand crack above to a ledge and a station (5.8). Excellent protection up to 2". Two ropes to rappel.

Island Hopping 5.10d 28 metres

A direct line up the left side of the slab. Face and friction moves just left of a corner lead to a groove with more friction climbing above. Nice sustained technical climbing. Bolted.

Root for Me 5.9 28 metres

Follow the crack just left of the arete, until the angle decreases, then trend left to a belay. The crux is short. Gear to 2". The name refers to the big root which used to reside in the crack.

Southern Dihedrals Topo

Fat Boy and the Buttless Wonder 5.11a 2 pitches

FA: Johnson Ginger,Grant Causey 1996
Start just right of the dihedral. Tenuous friction moves lead past scarce bolts to a chain belay (5.10b). Follow the thin crack above to difficult stemming in the dihedral, then trend right on micro-edges to friction moves and finally chains (5.11a). Bring 9 draws and two ropes. An excellent climb.

Right of Fat Boy are two faboulous looking finger cracks, which have been cleaned, but no known ascent has been made. These routes will likely by solid 5.10 or harder.