Matt's Climbing Page - Houdini Area

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A number of fine routes have been developed on the lowest reaching slab of Copper Mountain. A trail has recently been cut up to the cliff. Just south of where the golf course road meets the main road under the power lines head into the trees on the obvious, flagged trail. After meandering past some boulders with a couple short problems the trail heads up the talus slope to a huge boulder at the bottom of the cliff.. Directly above this boulder a thin pink dyke (mid 5.10) leads diagonally up the mossy wall past 3 bolts. About 50m north a fixed rope leads up to a ledge which accesses a number of climbs. These routes are on mixed protection, generally bolted slabs at the bottom leading to cracks above. The grades of the developed climbs are 5.8 to mid 5.10, though many harder slab routes could easily be developed. Two ropes are needed for many of the climbs which have pitches between 30 and 40 metres.

Houdini	5.10c	4 pitches
An excellent climb, and a great introduction to Copper Mountain. Start in the low angle corner past two bolts, then friction moves below the dead tree to a small flake system. Through a small roof and then easily up a big flake to a chain belay (5.8). Slabby face climbing past two bolts then leads to an easier layback/jam crack and chains (5.10c or 5.9 1pa). Pitch three starts with face/slab moves past a bolt (serious factor 2 fall potential - be careful!) then either a flake on the left or unprotected, tenuous friction moves straight up and right (5.9). Belay from the big ledge. Above the ledge climb the slab on funky sloping knobs and friction moves past bolts to a belay ledge (5.10a). A harder (5.11ish) finale up the 15 metre wall above the 4th pitch would gain a large treed ledge and truly complete this climb, but has not been done to date. Bring a medium rack to 2 1/2". Two ropes are needed to rappel the bottom pitches.
Sack of Spuds	5.10a	25 metres
10 metres right of Houdini. Some flakes with slab moves between them lead past bolts to a finger crack. A good climb and more strenuous than it looks. Crack gear to 3/4". Loose dirty scrambling above leads to the 2nd pitch of Houdini.

Follow the base of the cliff down a slope for about 50 metres to reach the next climb:

(unnamed)	5.10b	3 pitches
This climb starts out with face and friction climbing past bolts to a chain belay. Lots of thin edges (5.10b). Then up past more bolts through the roof and right to belay (5.9). Finally stem and layback up the strenuous dihedral past bolts and pins. Exit right above the jam crack (5.10a). Rappel from a tree. Well protected with fixed gear though a couple small to medium cams may be useful. Two ropes to rappel the first pitch.

The next corner on the right is about 5.7, and is leadable on gear, though it is quite vegetated.

Above these climbs a 3rd class gully leads to more possible climbs and the ledge above Houdini.