Matt's Climbing Page - Copper Mountain North End

Copper Mountain - Buffalo Rock and Peanut Rock

The northerrnmost area of Copper Mountain has one small slab which is popular for teaching beginners, and lots of potential in the cliffs above, but few routes.

Some of the most commonly climbed routes at copper are on a short slab at the north end of the main cliff. As the Hydro access road levels out by the power lines, head north about 200m to a large boulder (Buffalo Rock) which sports 3 drilled routes and a manky bolt ladder. In the trees accross the road is another boulder with a number of short problems.

Just north along the road a trail leads to a short, easy slab on the right, with routes from 5.3-5.10b (topo at right). The easy nature of these short climbs as well as the ease of top roping makes this slab popular for teaching beginners. A trail to the south leads to the top. Most of the climbs are top ropes, with bolt anchors or trees at the top. The centre route, The CandyBox (5.10b) is bolted, while the other climbs are all top ropes from bolt anchors or trees. Anchors may be reached by a trail to the south, or soloing one of the easy routes. The main faces of Copper above Buffalo Rock are steep but featured, and appears to offer the possibility of some climbing similar to the Bulletheads of the Squamish Chief. A bit further south is a long sweeping low angle slab which also appears to have some potential. A bit further south again is Peanut Rock:

Directly across the hydro lines from the golf course access is a prominent peanut shaped rock outcropping, hanging out from the main wall. The approach is a nasty scramble up the talus slope then through the bush, and up the vague gullies to the obvious peanut shaped rock. There are three routes in this area, each one higher than the last. All routes are equipped with rappel anchors.

Peanut Rock	5.10d	2 pitches
An outstanding climb. Climb the crack which splits the feature to a rappel anchor (10a). A traverse leads to the second crack, which rises to the top of Peanut Rock (10d). Aside from the traverse the protection is solid on gear to 2.5 inches. Can be climbed as one very long pitch with long slings to reduce drag on the traverse.
Smooth Sailin'	5.10b	2 pitches
A face and slab climb which starts atop peanut rock. Follow a line of bolts in two pitches (10b, 10a). A few wires will reduce the runouts.
Friends in High Places	5.11+/12-	2 pitches
A long crack above Smooth Sailing. The crack starts out thin and overhanging, and but the angle gradually relents, and the crack widens to hand size. This route has may not have yet been freed, but the crux may be easily aided.