Matt's Climbing Page - Copper Mountain

Copper Mountain - click on an area for details

The NW face of Copper Mountain. Click on an area for more information

Copper Mountain sports an impressive 350 metre cliff along its northwest face. Some of the best rock climbing in northwest BC can be found in this area. The rock is generally a smooth granite with a number of finger cracks and flake systems. The angle of the cliffs ranges from about 65 degrees to vertical. Although a number of climbs exist here, most are rarely climbed, and information is hard to come by. The potential exists for development of hundreds of new routes.

Two main access roads lead to the cliffs. The first leads to the north end of the cliff, and the second through the golf course to the tallest section of the cliff

Heading east of Terrace on hwy 16, turn right onto Crescent street just before SKB auto wreckers, then left onto Haaland a couple hundred metres further. After the road swings left, turn right onto Parmenter, and then right onto the gravel pullout. A 4wd Hydro access road leads up to the cliffs. Park out of the way at the bottom if you have a car.

Heading east of Terrace on Hwy 16, turn right onto Old Lakelse Lake Drive. Follow it through lower Thornhill and up the hill. Turn left onto Thornhill street accross from the Thornhill Pub. Just past a bend in the road with some cliffs in the trees on the right turn right into the golf course parking lot. Park at the opposite end from the clubhouse and follow the dirt road which heads north towards the second hole then turns east and heads towards the cliff. A road behind the gravel pit past the third hole leads to the power lines. Turn right and go about 100 metres through the alders to a talus slope. Climb this slope past a large boulder and go north along the base of the cliff. Pull up an old rope to a ledge which accesses the climbs.

Owing to the big wall nature of Copper Mountain, loose rock is a major concern. Most of the big loose rocks on the main routes have been cleared, but the ledges and belay stations often have a lot of small rocks on them. Of special note is the ledge above the 3rd (dihedral) pitch of the slab climb right of Houdini, which has lots of loose, fist sized rocks, easily knocked off by the leaders rope. When establishing new routes, please be careful of falling rock and try to safely remove dangerous rocks from the climb.

The climbs at Copper are among the best in the north west. In the summer, the west facing cliff stays warm and sunny until well past 10 pm, with an amazing view down the Skeena and Kitimat valleys. This area is perfect for both a long day of climbing and relaxed evening climb after work.

Although there is potential for a ton of new climbs, the developed routes are concentrated in three areas:

North End - Buffalo Rock and Peanut Rock

The northernmost part of Copper. A number of developed routes on a short slab and a few boulder problems near Buffalo Rock. Good potential in the somewhat forrested rocks above. Peanut Rock, a few hundred metres to the south, is also included in this section.

Houdini Area

The longest established routes at copper are in this, the prominent apron like slab near the center of Copper. Mostly slab and friction climbing with some easier cracks. Tons of potential on the walls above

Southern Dihedrals

A few excellent routes, with lots of potential. Again, hard slab climbing and some easier cracks is the game.